RV Leveling Systems: What You Need To Know



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rv-leveling-systemsEvery RV requires a leveling system for 2 reasons:

  1. To meet the requirements of the refrigerator. If it’s not level, it will not function very well.
  2. For the comfort of the occupants. Sleeping with your head in a downward slope can be uncomfortable. Likewise, rolling out of bed is a real possibility if you’re parked with one side higher than the other.

The key question for the new RVer is, “What type of leveling system do you have for your RV?”

Here’s what you need to know about RV leveling systems…

 

Simplest RV Leveling Option

wood-planks-for-rv-leveling

Slide-in pickup campers, some soft-sided tent trailers, teardrop trailers, and other lightweight RVs aren’t likely to have factory-mounted RV leveling jacks of any sort.

Usually, 2×6 planks are used to accommodate the relatively minor adjustments required to level out such a unit.

As a precaution, at least one wheel that isn’t on a leveling plank should be blocked in order to prevent the RV from rolling off the leveling block.

Many RVers upgrade to a  stackable set of plastic RV leveling blocks that are cleaner and much lighter in weight. Designed to snap together, you can build a ramp of sorts from your block kit to gain the proper height for leveling your RV.

 

RV Leveling Jacks

Most mid-sized RV trailers (travel trailers and 5th wheel trailers) come with stabilizer jacks attached at the corners of the RV. You crank them down by hand until you have some of the weight of the trailer applied to the jack.

NOTE: These jacks are only designed to level out an RV, not to lift the trailer off the ground as would be required to change a tire.

rv-stabilizer-jacks

Stabilizer jacks require both care and maintenance. If you accidentally  attempt to pull away while your RV is leveled with these jacks they will very easily fold over and be destroyed. They must be retracted completely, because even very light impact will tear them clean off your RV.

Crank-up jacks must be kept clean and greased. Hanging down below your RV, they will quickly collect dirt and grit when you travel on gravel roads. That will ultimately hamper the ability to turn the long threaded rod that makes the jack raise and lower.

A common accessory to assist in raising and lowering screw type jacks is a cordless electric drill. Used to quickly raise or lower the jack, a drill with a socket can save both time and effort!

 

Hydraulic RV Leveling Systems

Many motorhomes come equipped with hydraulic leveling systems.

With a group of 4 buttons near the driver’s seat, you can level up your RV in total comfort.

hydraulic-rv-leveling-system  rv-leveling-system

Even these seemingly foolproof RV leveling systems require some attention though. Maintenance is usually limited to making sure the hydraulic reservoir has sufficient fluid, but there are some concerns to be aware of when using hydraulic stabilizer jacks:

  • Hydraulic jacks are much stronger than manual screw jacks. Using them together, you can easily raise the entire motorhome off the ground. This is very helpful when the time comes to change a tire — because crawling under a motorhome can be difficult with a flat tire.
  • When using the hydraulic levelers, always lift either one complete side or one complete end of the RV. This will help you avoid twisting the unit which may cause damage to the structure.
  • Where you use your hydraulic levelers is also a concern. A concrete surface is best, but blacktop can be used with caution. If ambient temperatures are high, you will likely create a depression in the blacktop with the weight of your motorhome concentrated on the relatively small pads of your leveling jacks.
  • Attempting to use a hydraulic leveling system on a soft dirt surface will prove futile, as the jack will just sink into the ground. Be sure you have a solid footing when you use this type of RV leveling system.

 

Here are some small RV levels that adhere to the 4 corners of your RV and enable you to see how level your RV really is.

Here are some tips for leveling and stabilizing your RV.

Curtis

I’ve been involved in RVing for over 50 years — including camping, building, repairing, and even selling RVs and motorhomes. I’ve owned, used, and repaired almost every class and style of RV ever made. I do all of my own repair work. My other interests include cooking, living with an aging dog, and dealing with diabetic issues. If you can combine a grease monkey with a computer geek, throw in a touch of information nut and organization freak, combined with a little bit of storyteller... you’ve got a good idea of who I am. To date, I've shared my RV knowledge in over 300 articles here at The Fun Times Guide! Many of them have over 25K shares.

76 thoughts on “RV Leveling Systems: What You Need To Know

  1. We purchased a 2005 Rockwood, 31 ft with two slide outs travel trailer. We used it for the second time this week-end. Everything has worked great until we got ready to pack up to leave. Our son was bringing in the bunkhouse slideout, when 1/2 way in, it stopped. We then tried to bring in the sofa/dining area, and it wouldn’t budge. We have tested all fuses, battery connections, power, etc. and everything else is working and showing proper voltage and charge. We were told that you could manually put the slideouts in, but nothing in the manual explains that, nor do we see any type of mechanism that indicates you can do that. Needless to say, we had to leave our camper at the campsite. Any suggestions? Thank you!

    1. Not a Happy Camper, I’m guessing this is your first RV with slideouts. I say that because sometimes when one is unfamiliar with things they get a bit frazzled when it doesn’t work and might over look something simple in their confusion. Manual systems usually consist of a hand crank that you install through a hole in the sidewall that will let you crank in the slideout. Other setups include using a socket wrench at the electric motor inside the RV to retract them. It’s unlikely that both slideouts have experienced a mechanical problem so I’d recheck that you haven’t missed a circuit breaker of fuse.

      1. I have a problem with my jacks not getting back to the up position they go half way and stop . I bought and changed the return springs but no dif. I have to lift up with a board to get them in place . its only two of the four jacks

        1. Larry, it may be a limit switch our of adjustment. I’m not familiar with the system myself, but it may be sensing that they are up when they haven’t finished rising. Call it a semi educated guess because that is one system I have never worked on and there are a variety of different systems.

          1. thank you Curtis but the only switch is for the alarm and warning light on the control panel. the y wont go off until I lift the jacks manually but thanks anyway

          2. Larry, I was thinking along the line of a sensor, switch on the jacks themself that tell the computer what position the jack is in. It may be out of adjustment.

  2. Thanks for your previous help on partially extending slide outs and the warning about rain. Now, can help in another area ?
    I Park my class A Tiffin Phaeton, 2009 year, in the street next to my home. Even with the step button turned off, and the engine off, if I open my entry door, the step will deploy and partly extend about 4-5 inches & stops, hitting the street curb. The step motor stops, is not warm to touch, no sound is heard that would warn me that the motor is binding up. When I do engage the ignition key, even without starting the engine, the step comes to full retract, no problem. I can’t position the coach to allow full step extension since I would endanger a traffic collision to my coach by so doing. I was told by at least 7-8 repair facilities that this causes no harm to the gears or motor. However, Kwikee Step contends that this could damage the motor. They have had lawsuits about step deployment so I believe their answer is to cover their rear ends. Again, the step button will not lock up the step into full retraction. Opening the entry door automatically causes the step to extend. Curtis, do you have any advise on this problem ?

    1. irv kodimer, Most motorhomes that I’m familiar with will leave the steps fully retracted if you turn off the house and chassis batteries before you open the door. That way you can jump down and leave as a last step after closing things up for a period of storage. It also helps to remind you to shut off all the batteries as the last step before you walk away.

  3. very green just got ggb2 cant find out where water is coming from millde floor just 4 jns from tiotit if water or pump on if off dosen t sorry rv ggb 85 both have to be off it just keeps on coming like something is off and pushing it out but it just mets in middle then goes in to carpet tks leslie

    1. Louis St Andrew, Sorry but I can’t decipher your short hand. Please resend with complete words and sentences and maybe I can be of assistance.

    2. we have a 32′ Holiday Rambler motorhome. One of the hydraulic jacks won’t stay up. We think it might an internal leak in a solenoid valve. How complicated is fixing this?

      1. If you are a qualified hydraulic technician, which I was many years ago, It can be a good size project that May very well require special tools. 1st the question is how can you tell it is the Hydraulic solenoid valve? There are rubber seals inside the hydraulic valve as well there are rubber seals inside the Hydraulic ram. If the O ring in either item has been damaged you will get the same result, the ram will leak down. I don’t recommend tackling the project

  4. hello Curtis, can I ask if it might damage a hydraulic leveling system to use it when the vehicle sits in the drive for a few months? thanks

    1. jpfx, It won’t hurt a thing to leave your RV on the jacks for a few months. Over time only 2 things can happen. The hydraulic cylinder may leak down some. Usually this amounts to the cylinder just settling a bit as the oil is seeping around the piston inside the cylinder so you don’t see any leakage. Run the cylinder back out if it settles and your good to leave it again. If you’re set up ocean side you may get some rusting on the chrome cylinder rods. Coat them with a light film of grease if you think this might be an issue. Under normal circumstances you shouldn’t have to do anything.

  5. hello Curtis i have a 34ft class it has a supper slide will the hydraulics for the slide run hydraulic lifts

    1. Dick, Possibly but without seeing it I hesitate to say. Some slideouts have a complete 12v hydraulic pump with built in reservoir that would allow you to plump additional functions. The key is the size of the reservoir. You can easily run into a situation where it won’t hold enough oil causing cavitation of the pump. That’s where it tries to pump air because you ran out of oil. That will give you spongy and erratic operation, plus cause undue wear on the pump.

  6. I bought a 30′ 1999 Winnebago that did not come with any leveling equipment. As a single senior citizen on a budget, I need something affordable and simple enough for a woman to operate. What do you recommend ?

    1. Nancy, Simple and affordable..About the only thing affordable for one on a fixed and modest budget is leveling blocks. Either plastic store bought, or sections of 2×6 wood that you can make from lumber at the nearest home center. Hydraulic leveling systems, when purchased aftermarket, are both expensive to buy and to have installed. Multiple thousands of dollars would be invested for what a few pieces of 2×6 can do for less than 5 dollars. Myself, I just park in the most level spot I can find and throw a piece of plank under which ever tire needs it to be close enough.

      1. Thanks for the advice Curtis. Sounds easy enough .? (lol) Okay, just head to the lumber store and buy some 2×6 pieces of wood (I’m assuming 6 pieces, one for each tire ) and drive up onto them ? Right now, the only place I have to park my motorhome, is quite unlevel, especially when I have the one small slide out. I don’t dare use the fridge. Here in New Mexico we have extremely high winds (sometimes 60mph gusts) and my Winnie lists like a ship in rough seas. Good thing I went for heavy duty instead of an ultra light. Will the blocks of wood help the listing problem at all ?

        1. Nancy, everything within reason. I hope you understand the lengths of 2×6 should be laying flat on the ground so that each layer raises the wheel only 1-1/2″ higher. I wouldn’t recommend stacking the blocks any more than 2 or 3 at the most high and have then different lengths so they form a ramp of sorts. There’s a limit to how much you should try to raise one side with this type of setup. I’d recommend having the home center cutting you a series of blocks from one long 2×6 as likely they will make the cuts for little or no charge. As to the wind affecting sway when parked, this method of leveling will make no improvement for you on that issue. If you want a solid feeling the only choice is hydraulic leveling systems that will do a nice job for you but will cost you. You get what you pay for.

  7. Hi Curtis. Just bought a 91 Bounder. Can’t find leveling switch, all is see on the dash is an unlit light saying jacks down. any ideas where the switch / levers might be? I’m very new to Rving. Thanks Dave

    1. f1fan6, Every rig I’ve seen has the leveling controls within easy reach from the drivers seat. May be levers on the floor on the left side, or switches on the left side. I haven’t seen switches or levers on the right side of the drivers area, but it’s not impossible.

  8. We own a Forest River Georgetown 2004 and the parking brake alarm on the hydr. leveling system alarms when the key is turned on and when the key is off. any suggestions as to what the problem might be?

    1. Marie, Generally when the alarm goes off, the system at least thinks the jacks are down… whether or not they really are. Assuming the jacks are retracted and the alarm is still going off, there may be a position sensor at one of the jacks that has become misaligned, or damaged. Something is telling the computer the jack is still down, you just need to find which jack has the faulty sensor or switch.

  9. Hi Curtis we have the same motor home the forest river 2004 and the jacks are doing the same thing but now they want go up or down we had the 2 front jacks repaired and put them back on.they went up and down OK in till i had them repaired they just leaked down all the time now the hydrolic system that work the jacks does not even make a noise and they stoped working can you help me please.thank you Nadeane

    1. Nadeane, If it is not making any noise at all like it is attempting to work it sounds like an electrical problem. Power is likely not getting to the pump. It could be caused by a number of things but about all you can do is verify the fuse to the system is still good. Diagnosing the problem will take someone who is skilled in automotive electrical diagnosis.

  10. Hi Curtis. I’ve got a problem with my auto-level. One of the levels is not completely up (it’s about 1.5 inches down), but even if I use the emergency retract, nothing happens. I’ve tried lowering it manually and automatically, but nothing works. I have it booked in for the middle of May, but any suggestions you might have before then would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much! (I should also point out that my system is hydraulic, and only 2 years old)

    1. Paul, leveling systems rely on some sort of position sensor to tell it to stop retracting. Often a limit switch is activated when the jack is all the way up. There may be a switch of some sorts that is out of position on that one jack. Compare the position of any switches you can find compared to the other jacks and you may find the problem.

  11. Curtis. I have a 36 ft Lapalma with the front driver side jack that will not retract fully. (meaning it will release the pressure and then stops. I replaced the spring and it didn’t solve the problem. The two front jacks are on one line feed. When I force the jack up with the switch off the other jack comes back down. If I hold the power switch on and pry the jack up it will retract. What do you think, I had the jack rebuiltk

    1. Donald, from what you describe it appears the problem is in the valving and not the jack. I’m not an RV leveling specialist but I have worked with hydraulics in the past. If the valve isn’t opening it can’t allow the oil in the jack to return to the reservoir. That is pretty much the extent of my knowledge on the subject. I just haven’t had the misfortune to work on leveling systems of my own RV’s. I’d look at the control valve. The best test I can suggest is with the jack down, or at least at the point it will not retract any further on it’s own loosen the hydraulic line enough to allow oil to leak out. If the jack continues to retract on its own, while oil is leaking out, the jack is not the problem. If the jack remains in the same position, the jack is the problem or the retracting spring is the problem.

  12. Hi Curtis, ran accross your site in my qeust to find an answer to my question: One of my leveling jacks continues to run after it is fully retracted on my 1999 Gulfstream Class A motorhome. That is if I hold the button to retract for greater than one second. It seems the pump motor will run for as long as a minute or two after it is fully retracted. If I just bump the switch barely a bunch of times it will come all the way up eventually and not contiue to run, but it is tricky. Any idea what that issue may be? I appreciate any response. Thank you, John

    1. John, likely there is some sort of limit switch to tell it when each jack is up. Compare one jack to another that works properly and you may see something out of place or needing adjustment.

  13. Thank you so much Curtis. There are in fact little plungers at each jack that appear to sense that the jack is fully retracted. This would turn the “extended” light off and the jack would not cycle when up against the plungers. I noticed the previous owner had glued metal washers on the jack plates/foot that would contact the plunger just a tad ealier than the plate…maybe they were factory? I added an addtional washer in an attempt to double it up on the jack in question to see if that would help, but it did not.
    When all jacks are extended, and I use the “all four jack” up button that retracts all four jacks at the same time, If I hold it for one second and release, the other three jacks will stop as usual, but the jack in question will continue to run all the way into the plunger and continue to run for minutes. I think I had to pull the fuse once as I was a little worried it would damage the system some how.
    Typically, if I used the retract “all four jack” or “individual jack” buttons the jacks would only retract when the button is depressed and they would stop retracting when the button(s) were released. Still that way for the other three, but not the jack in question. I just push the retract button for that jack and it retract all the way and will just keep going/cycling. A real head scratcher and embarrasing at the RV park…lol
    Thanks again,
    John

    1. John, there must be a switch involved with the plunger you mention. Its a good chance the problem is related to that swich either wiring or the switch is bad.

  14. Curtis, is there a way to retrain the adco levelers what level is? For some reason it appears that our level bubble is not level, when the rv self leveled itself…any help would be appreciated.

    1. I’m not familiar with the adco levelers but generally there is a sensor that determines when the RV is level. If that level sensor comes out of adjustment or fails the computer gets a little crazy. On my HWH system the sensor is mounted on the side of the hydraulic valve assembly.

  15. Curtis,

    We are still new to this and have a 40 foot MH with hydraulic jacks. Currently the front jacks will not come down. A small leveler inside in several places shows we are level. Always before though all four always come down and it’s our understanding that all four should still be down for overall stability. We topped off hydraulic fluid which didn’t
    appear to be low and we have recently put the silicone on the jacks after having trouble with retraction which resolved that. Should all four be down even when level without front ones down? If so, is there anything else we can check to try to identify the problem? Thank you. Appreciate your article.

    Cheryl

    1. I would think generally that all jacks should come down. One way to see would be to use the manual switch and intentionally make it unlevel and then go back to automatic level and let it straighten itself out.

  16. Hi Curtis,
    Very new to this whole RVing thing, but my kids are growing up way to fast and I felt this would be a great cost effective way to spend more weekends away with the family. We recently picked up a used 2004 ultra light flagstaff 25′. The boys are super excited and I’m ready to start our adventures! unfortunately I know nothing about this unit and was given even less to work off of when I bought it. I currently have it park on relatively level ground. I was looking to level it off with the jacks and unfortunately folded one of them (its the style you have marked as the simpliest leveling solutions). Thats when I came on line here and read your post about how they are not meant to lift the trailer off the ground. How do I level this unit? Should I look to purchasing 4 heavy duty jacks to go around the unit to properly lift it up? are the current jacks only meant to stabilize the unit? proper climate control for the RV during storage outside so the interior doesn’t rot out on us. hell! I cant even figure out how to start the furnace! lol! any help or information would be greatly appreciated.

    Sincerely

    New Rv dad

    1. You are correct that the Jacks are designed as stabilizing jacks. If you have to lift the trailer high enough to take the wheels off the ground you need to relocate to More Level Terrain. As for proper storage climate it is a question of humidity for the most part. If it is extremely dry where you are it would be helpful to have a humidifier in it. If it is extremely damp and wet a dehumidifier would protect it. If it is exposed to extreme cold do not mess with it when it is cold or plastic items such as shower walls may crack. RVs are not designed to carry a heavy snow load so do not let snow accumulate on them or you will have heat damage or leakage.All pretty much Common Sense issues.

      1. I’m out in Vancouver Canada, maybe a day or two of snow but it’s more slush than anything. Just a lot of rain in winter time. So a heavy duty dehumidifier sounds like the thing to go with. Also not to concerned for the cold as we only get a few days in winter below 0 Celsius. Am I able to put in a heavy duty jack system to level it out (if need be lift it off its tires)? I’ve also seen a few lifted and blocked off the tires for storage. Is that a recommended storage technique? Thanks again for all your help.

        1. Sure you can install a heavy duty Jack system that will lift it off its tires. it is all a matter of how much money you want to throw at it. Many large Class A Motorhomes have hydraulic jack systems that will lift them off the ground. As for removing the tires, that would be to prevent flat spots or ultraviolet damage from the Sun. Taking the weight off the tires and using tire covers would have the same effect. Personally I vote for leaving the tires on the RV.

  17. Hi Curtis,

    I have a 2010 Forest River Sunseeker with the two large slides. The back slide has the bunks and bedroom cabinets in it. I thought this RV came standard with manual leveling jacks and I found out that it does not. I am in the process of selling it but would like to install these jacks before I do. I had advertised it with manual leveling jacks. What would be your recommendation for a good quality manual jack that compares to the jacks that the RV would have came equipped with in the Forest River Standard packages. We do have Lego’s for leveling also. Your help would be very much appreciated.

    Thank you for your help!!!

    1. sorry, I don’t recommend one product over another for the most part. It always ends up being a case of how much do you want to spend and how fancy do you want to have. Being you plan on selling it after installation it hardly makes sense to go to any great length or expense. It won’t make a nickels difference in the sale price.

  18. I have the same RV leveling system pictured above in my 1999 Dolphin motorhome by national. My question is the rear jacks will lower and function properly. The front will make noise when attempting to lower but upon bending down and watching them…they are not lowering. Oil level seems to be full…rears work as supposed to….any ideas? Thank you in advance.

    1. Not really. Are you using the automatic leveling method or the manual method? If they won’t lower on the manual method you could have a bad couple of solenoids on the hydraulic valve or you could have an obstruction inside the hydraulic valve preventing them from opening. About all I can do is guess from here.

      1. in manuel mode….when I push them to go down….it makes noise but no action….how do I check the selenoids?

        1. Let’s just say if you have to ask it is probably beyond your abilities. the solenoids are mounted on the hydraulic valve Bank. There is one for each Jack. If they are functioning you can probably feel and hear the valve shifting when you have someone push the button and you are there with your hand on the valve. you can also test for electrical power going to the valve when the button is pushed. Beyond that you need a hydraulic technician period I do not recommend you try taking it apart.

  19. I have a 2008 Coachman Miranda and recently while I was out, as I was ready to leave an alarm came on with a red light flashing for my leveling jacks, some other RVers said my fluids were probably low,but no manual tell me where the reservoir is to fill it.. much appreciated if you could help.. lady in distress..

    1. I’m sorry but I can be a little help. I would have no idea or the reservoir is. There are so many manufacturers and different models it could be mounted anywhere. also be aware the warning signal could be something as simple as one of your Jack’s has not fully retracted when you put the motorhome in gear to go. I would suggest cycling your leveling system again and give it plenty of time to stow the Jacks completely.

  20. I have a 2006 40Ft coachman Motorcoach and we always feel that its not level after set up.where would be the best place inside or outside to double check the level of the coach. some say inside the refrigerator.

    1. Some people are ultra sensitive to an uneven floor . That said the most accurate way to test Would-be a 3′ carpenter’s level checking both ways On the floor . The refrigerator is sensitive to being level only to a point . Personally for me I use a circular bubble level placed on the stove because it is more important to me that the cake I am baking in the oven rises evenly . If the oven is level the rest of the RV is good enough .

        1. I accidentally posted before I finished writing so I edited my post which I believe answers your question

        2. Do it in the refrigerator/freezer.

          I was advised by the dealer that the refrigerator is the only appliance that being level makes a functional difference to and that other items in the coach could be out of level.

          Since it matters for the fridge….why not do it there?

          1. My only problem with that is that my motor coach is a 2006 and was not taken very good care of. The previous owner let water from defrosting run down the cabinets underneath the refrigerator. I had to replace a lot of rotted wood. While doing so I figured out that either by where or poor Construction refrigerator does not sit on a level Foundation in the camper to begin with. Leveling from that point also leaves things noticeably out of level in the rest of the camper. So I’m trying to find a happy medium so to speak.

  21. Just a general question, Curtis. Are auto leveling systems designed to level the coach or the frame?
    My Jayco class A system says level, but the appearance and level bubble say otherwise.

    1. I would think the coach or the frame Would-be the same thing . You May have a sensor out of adjustment and I don’t know enough about leveling systems to tell you how to adjust it . If you put a bubble level on the floor inside your coach it should read close to level .

      1. We’re new to the RV lifestyle. Just starting to realize all the various things you must consider to make the coach last as long as possible. Thanks for the info Curtis. I’ll check it out and let you know what I find.

  22. we have a 32 foot 1997 Holiday Rambler motorhome with HWH jacks with a joystick controller. One of the jacks doesn’t like to stay up. It relaxes to the point of retracting while the other 3 are still correctly positioned. Research so far indicates that it may be an internal leak in a solenoid valve. How complicated is it to fix this?

    1. It is a job that requires the knowledge of a qualified hydraulics technician And quite likely special tools. You could easily do more damage than good if you do not disassemble things properly . It could Just as easily be the Ram cylinder o ring. A motorhome that old seals get old And stiff.

  23. I have a 32 ft forest river , year 2000 , my son and I just installed a set of front sumo springs. when i lowered the chassis my left unlevel indicator came on. I have an hwh leveling system and now it
    will not operate up or down on either side of the vehicle . we checked the sensor and it seems to operate
    correctly when moved forward, backward or side to side . also I cannot get the pump to actuate. what or where should i be looking ??????

    1. Probably in the area you were working. If it functioned properly before you started the Spring replacment Odds are good you either hooked something back up incorrectly or you damaged something in the process.

  24. I have a 1998 Fleetwood Discovery. On a recent road trip I had serious problems with my hydraulic leveling system. When I went to level the home my leveling system light was not on and there was no action. I went to the fuse box near the inverter and located the fuse. 10 amp–blown.
    I replaced the fuse, went inside and puts the jacks down. No apparent issue. The next morning in preparing to leave, I tried to move the jacks and the system was dead! I went and replaced the fuse and when I did so got an immediate spark when inserting the fuse. I put twi fuses in and they both failed immediately. On the third fuse, I had my wife watch as I had completely powered the home down. She saw an immediate flash as the fuse failed when I turned the key. I was in a Walmart and made a bit of a mess as I had to loosen connetions on jacks to get them to retract. Thank God that worked!!
    Any Ideas?? Help.

    1. Yep, Next time that happens manually operate the solenoid valves At the hydraulic pump with no power going to the system . That will release the oil back into the tank And you won’t make a mess in the parking lot . The cylinders retract by means of a Spring so there is no need for electrical power to retract them . That said apparently you have a bad short somewhere in the electrical system . If you are unable to located it on your own it is time to go find a qualified technician .

      1. Thank You!
        Do you think that the pump could dead short?
        Or what other part or electric component might be the culprit?
        The only thing I had done to the system is that about 2 weeks earlier I tried cleaning the wires and such with carb cleaner as there was fluid and dirt. I’m kind of a freek about that stuff. Any additional ideas on how to trouble shoot this?
        Thanks in advance.
        tom

        1. Sraying the wiring with carburetor cleaner is not cleaning. You may have in effect created the short by doing that .The wire terminals need to be removed and properly cleaned with a baking soda solution and then polished with Sandpaper to create a good electronic conductive surface .

    1. The short answer is because it can, and you are on unlevel ground. Hydraulic self leveling jacks systems are easily powerful enough to lift your whole coach off the ground. Depending on the terrain you are sitting on if it requires lifting one or more wheels off the ground to find a level position it will do so automatically.

  25. We have a 2018 Keystone 1/2 ton 5th wheel with auto leveling jacks. They level the unit but it does not hold. Any suggestions? How do I check for leaks if that is the problem?

    1. If you do not see oil on the ground the leakage could be internal. That said, unless you Are a qualified hydraulic technician I strongly suggest you refer this level of repair to a professional.

  26. My self leveling jacks pulled one of my airbags off the mount. How can avoid this from happening again?

    1. Sadly without seeing the situation I would have no clue to the exact cure to the problem. If the RV is newer and still on warranty the best choice would be to take it back to your dealer and let them figure it out. Unless something has been bent, hit, or damaged in some way to cause the interference which would be an issue that your insurance company should address, the other possibility would be an incorrect installation problem. If it’s an older rv, anything out of warranty, it is likely something moved or came loose to cause the problem.

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