RV Water Leaks: Possible Causes & Treatments

We received the following question from a reader.  It concerns water leaking into the RV — possibly from the rear corner.

rear-corner-of-5th-wheel-trailer.jpgI purchased a 04 dutchman new off a lot in sw fla in 05. It is a 24′ sport 5th whl. I am not new to rv lifestyle having owened several over the years but this one like most has its issues. Most I deal with and understand. my question is this. What product works best to seal up the rear corners of the unit.  They have leaked since day one and after having two reputable dealers work on this problem we have found once again after a long hot summer of fla storage moisture/water on the floor of the rear unit. Our travels are usualy within 200mi round trip and what i think is going on is some type of vibration where the alluminum meets the corner beed eventualy breaking the caulk/seal. Does anyone know a product by name that i can use that works for this condition?  Thanks — Paul

Water leaks can cause many a case of baldness.  Just when you think you’ve figured out how the water is getting in, a good heavy rain will come along and prove you wrong.  Rather than pulling your hair out over the situation, a more methodical water test may be required.

Here are some possible sources of RV water leaks, along with ways to accurately determine the true source of your leak…

Possible Sources Of The Leak

Because water is pooling up on the floor at the rear corners of the unit doesn’t always mean the moisture is coming in through the vertical corner seams. 

Water may be entering at the roof seam and traveling along until it has the opportunity to come through the paneling and run down the back wall. 

There is also the possibility that water is entering through a bad seal on the roof and running between the rubber roof membrane and the plywood roof.  If there is no seam in the plywood, water will work its way back to the first opening it finds to run out.  This may be quite a ways from where the water is actually coming into the RV.

How To Find The Source Of A Leak

The first step should be a good water test — one that takes some time, as you may need to allow the water to travel its path before you will see it coming into the interior space.  I would recommend using a garden hose with the nozzle set on a wide spray.

Take your time, with one person on the inside watching and another working their way spraying water along all seams, roof vents, and even the siding itself.  Don’t forget any windows that may be involved.  The air conditioner on the roof is sealed with a foam rubber gasket placed underneath the unit.  Be sure to run water around that A/C, as it can migrate to other spots under the rubber roof. 

Start your water test from the ground up.  As soon as water shows up inside, you’ll know where the problem lies.  That way, you’ll know for sure if the leak is in the vertical seem or somewhere else.


If
The Leak Is In A Corner…

In this case, Paul seems convinced that the problem is located at the rear corners of his 5th wheel trailer.  Exterior corner construction of a trailer with aluminum siding is accomplished by the 2 sides being trimmed so that they are close together at the intersection of the corner. 

Depending on the type of siding, one or two layers of butyl tape sealer are placed on both sides of the corner.  A corner trim molding is then pressed into the butyl tape and screwed into one side of the corner.  The corner trim molding then has a vinyl strip inserted, covering the exposed screws that secure the molding in place.

In the process of seating the corner molding into place, excess butyl tape will be squeezed out of the joint.  This is a good sign, as it indicates that adequate sealer was installed and the entire cavity around the corner is filled with putty.

5th-wheel-trailer-rear-corner-seams.jpg This is not a quick and easy job as to seal up the corner properly.  You will need to remove the corner molding — all the way to the roof.  You will also need to carefully scrape and remove all the old butyl tape, as it will interfere and possibly prevent the new butyl tape from sealing the corner. 

The whole process becomes more critical when aluminum siding is involved.  Smooth fiberglass only requires 1 layer of butyl tape, as all surfaces are smooth.  Aluminum siding has dips and ridges requiring at least 2 layers of butyl tape to fill the gaps.  

Over time, if it appears the sealing ability of the butyl tape is being compromised, you might be able to stretch its life by applying a thin layer of silicone over the exposed portion of the trim/siding joint.  If there is a serious water infiltration problem, it’s better to completely redo the seam rather than attempt a quick fix.

The key to the whole project is to accurately determine where the water is getting in.  It’s quite possible that a much smaller repair will cure the problem.  Be sure to check the top of the corner molding, as water can run down the interior side of the molding and reach the interior. 

If The Leak Is At The Roof Seam…

rear-corner-vinyl-trim.jpg For leaks originating at roof seams or vents, the best sealer to cure the problem is Flow Seal, a self-leveling sealer that will be runny when applied and will level out and dry to a firm flexible cover encapsulating the seam or roof-mounted accessory. 

If the vinyl insert tape in your cor
ner molding becomes damaged, discolored or brittle, you can freshen up the look of your exterior by replacing it.

Other Possible Scenarios

The key to success in curing any water leak is to take the time necessary to confirm exactly where the water is coming in.

Since Paul stated that he discovered water on the floor when retrieving his unit from storage after a long hot summer, there is one other possible source of the leak worth considering. 

When you unhitch a trailer, it is likely that it will be sloped to the rear at the point the tongue will clear the hitch.  If the trailer was left in this position with the tail low, the standing water could have come in more toward the front of the RV and migrated to the lowest or rear position.  

As you can see, there are many variables involved in determining the source of a leak inside an RV.  Hopefully, a careful water test will confirm exactly what’s going on. 

Curtis Carper

I’ve been involved in RVing for over 40 yrs -- including camping, building, repairing, and even selling RVs. I’ve owned, used, and repaired almost every class and style of RV ever made. I do all of my own repair work. My other interests include cooking at home, living with an aging dog, and dealing with diabetic issues. If you can combine a grease monkey with a computer geek, throw in a touch of information nut and organization freak, combined with a little bit of storyteller, you've got a good idea of who I am.

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  • Glennvinson61

    I have a 2005 Keystone Outback 5th wheeler with a single slideout. It has a new roof but I now have a leak at both ends of my slideout. I also seem to get a lot of moisture in the window wells.

  • Curtis

    Glennvinson61, the slideout leaks could be either adjustment to the slideout to regain a tight seal, or a faulty seal along the top edge. If you mean condensation running down the inside of the glass to pool within the aluminum window frame, there are weep holes to allow that to run outside harmlessly. If you mean wall paneling is damp around the window, the window may need to be resealed or you have a leak somewhere that is allowing water to run into the area.

  • tom

    we have an 98 nomad with a water leak under bath tub any ideas on how to repair it

    • Curtis

      Tom, If indeed the leak is under the tub you should be able to remove a wall panel somewhere to get at it. Look for one held in place with screws rather than stapled in place. Before you get too crazy tearing things apart make sure the leak is coming from underneath the tub. More often water will leak around the shower enclosure and pool on the floor giving the appearance of a plumbing leak. The only way to confirm the origin is to run the shower with someone in it moving around (washing). Splashing water all over will help you find the problem.

  • Kannajl

    I have a 1999 Sportsmen trailer with a lead in the front bunk area.  I’ve cut away the rotten paneling and found some rotten wood studs.  With a garden hose I was able to confirm water is entering from one of the seams of the overlapping aluminum siding.  This is the front of the camper.  Looks like water is coming in only about 1″ long section.  I don’t see any damage to this area.  Why would this one little area of the seam leak?  How do I repair that leaking seam?   Thanks much

    • Curtis

      Kannajl,  I’m assuming it’s a vertical corner seam that is leaking.  Why it’s leaking is because either an area of the joint was never sealed properly or the sealant failed.  The bigger question is you have identified the point of exit for the water on the interior, but are you equally sure you have confirmed the exact point it is getting into on the outside?  Your choices are two:  You can disassemble the entire corner from top to bottom and replace all the butyl tape sealant resealing the entire corner.  This is what the factory would probably suggest.  A second choice would be to buy a tube of clear silicone caulking and run a neat bead down both sides if the corner molding from top to bottom.  It might not be a bad idea to remove the plastic tape insert that hides the screws and dab some silicone over each screw.  If you go the silicone route be sure you have good contact with both the aluminum siding and the molding all the way.  Any skips will be an entry point for water.  Good luck.

      • Jeff

        Curtis, thank you for the quick reply.  You have the most helpful and easy to follow suggestions.  If I understand you correctly, you’re suggesting it’s very possible that the corner vertical seam is the water entry point.  From there the water is likely finding the horizontal seam and runs along it (about 3″) before finding a good exit point on the interior of the camper.  I will try to isolate this scenario.  Thanks again .  

        • Curtis

          Kannajl, That’s the hard part about water leaks, sometimes you have to go to great lengths to find out where it’s coming in.  Once under the siding it can travel and come out inches or even feet away from where it’s getting in.  I had a leak that came out just above the kitchen counter through a seam in the interior paneling that I never did nail down the entry point.  By running a bead of silicone around every window and every vent I did cure the problem.  I think it was coming in at the vent over the stove, but I’ll never know for sure.

  • CAROLE

    WE HAVE A 2001 TAHOE AND WE HAVE A WATER LEAK. ITG LOOKS LIKE THE FITTING ON THE BACK OF THE ON AND OFF VALVE OF SHOWER FAUCET HAVE BROKE ON HOT WATER SIDE.
    HOW DO WE GET TO THAT AREA TO FIX? THE STOVE IS ALSO ON THE OTHER SIDE OF BATHROOM WHERE SHOWER FAUCET IS DO WE TAKE STOVE OUT AND WALL TO GET ACCCES.
    PANELS ARE VERY SMALL TO SEE WHAT WE ARE DOING

    • Curtis

      Carole, sorry I can’t be of much help without seeing your RV.  Access to plumbing is different to each RV.  The best I can suggest is to look for a panel or wall section that is held in place with screws rather than staples.  That’s the usual method of supplying an access point.

  • Harriette

    Just bought a 1995 Damon Challenger 5th wheel, have water stains on ceiling in various places, but most concerning is the horrible smell that is similar to rotten eggs or sulfur and have seen water falling out of bottom of trailing after washing dishes as the water is soapy. Is there a 30-day lemon law in Florida on 5th wheels. Did check out roof and seal on top of slide out is bad and some other small cracks in sealants. Thanks, Harriette

    • Curtis

      Harriette, Lemon laws generally are designed to protect the first owner of a vehicle bought new.  I doubt there is any recourse for something that is well beyond 10 years old, hence the saying Buyer Beware.  

  • bob Cook

    I have a 90 Sprint that I have been trying to stop a slylight leak diectly over the shower, thank goodness it leaks in to the basin and down the drain. I have tried everything ecept taking out the skylight and reseating it, I do all my own work.

    • Curtis

      Bob Cook,  My two favorite products are C-10 Flow Seal and Eternabond Sealing Tape.  C-10 is designed for metal roofs and Eternabond for rubber roofs.  If they don’t stop it I’d wonder if the water is getting in somewhere else and migrating to the skylight.  Just a thought to consider.

      • bluesscotty

        What about fiberglass roof leaks under the solar panel on a uhaul ’84? Eternabond? And I was wondering how to remove the panel before laying the tape down.

        • Curtis

          bluesscotty, Sorry, I have no idea how the panel is attached. As for Eternabond, it’s good stuff that will seal up any leak the first time around.

  • suzanne

    I have 2011 keystone and since day 1 water has pooled up from under edge of the kitchen counter unit where the wood base and the floor are there is not a leak in any of the drain pluming under the sink it seems to be coming from the floor. Where do I start.  We are living full time in this camper and not even in the state we purchased it in so prefer to fix our self.  Hate to uproot children and all just to leave RV at shop to fix. help!!!!

  • Curtis

    Suzzanne,  Something may be leaking beneath the cabinet but above the floor, in the toe kick area.  The only way to find out is to do some dismantling so you can eyeball the drain and water lines completely.  Don’t automatically assume the drain is ok if no water leaks while you have the faucet running.  I had a bad “P” trap gasket that only leaked when the stopper was pulled on a full sink of water.  The large quantity of water was enough to make the P trap drip.

  • Laurmcdevitt

    I have bought 2001 fifth wheel camper with a  2 ft soft spot above the main slide. The leak has been found fixed but how do i fix the interior wall. Only half of the wall is soft. can you place one panel?

  • Anonymous

    We have a 2006 Four Winds Windsport which has developed small (~2mm diameter) very circular blisters on the sidewalls.  They are high and low, front and rear, both sides.  They eventually pop and leave the underlying construction exposed.  I have heard of similar problems with Winnebagos – are you aware of it occuring on Four Winds or other Thor products ?  What is the cause and what is the fix?

    Any info will be appreciated!!

    • Curtis

      hcox01, My first inclination would be to assume you’re referring to delamination on the exterior of your RV.  Thinking about it when you say small blisters that eventually pop I believe you mean on the inside of the sidewalls.  Either way the problem is caused by water leaking into the wall structure.  My own 2000 Four Winds Hurricane had the same issue.  Leakage around the windows was my problem.  Running a bead of silicone caulk around every window and every vent stopped the water from getting in.  In my case I re-paneled the areas with the most damage and didn’t worry about the small spots.  On the exterior if delamination is the problem, there is no cost effective way to repair the damage. 

  • Silveradohd2001

    Have a 2000 Gulfstream Millenium SunVoager. Leak is in the wall next to shower, but no water under shower. When we turn water off outside no water inside. Can’t figure out how water lines run. Any help appreciated.

    • Curtis

      Silveradohd2001, If the leak is in the wall I assume it is the wall where the shower faucet is located.  Usually, (90 % of RVs) there is a removable panel that allows access to the fittings and water lines going to the shower.  The removable panel should be attached with screws rather than stapled as the rest of your walls are.  It may be a smaller panel within that wall, or they may intend for you to remove that whole piece of paneling.  Either way, the key is look for screws, that means it’s removable.

  • joyce

    I have a water leak but cannot find where its coming from.  I’ve looked everywhere.  I live in my camper, so I cannot move it.  I live in the country.  The leak is coming from under a vent area next to the shower.  My camper is a 2001 Trail-lite.  I have recently put in a new shower.  The floor between the sink and the fridge feels soft.  Could you help.

    • Curtis

      Joyce, Sorry but without seeing your RV there are quite a few possibilities.  If you put in a new shower there might be a plumbing leak in the fittings and lines relating to that redo.  It may be completely unrelated if there are other water lines in the area.  You might even have a water coming in through a seam leak on the exterior.  If the floor feels soft the damage is done is only going to get worse.  Once the floor gets saturated the wood is worthless.  You need to find someone who can trace it down for you soon or the value of your RV will be going down the drain with the water.

  • Tiger4255

    we have a 2005 Dutchmen Sport 26ft, it has a slide out and we “think” it is leaking around the slide out somewhere. The wall next to the slide out has a large bubble and the floor below that bubble is soaked and the wood is now rotted. We are unsure how to tell if its coming from the slide out or from somewhere else…. please help!

    • Curtis

      Tiger4255,  Looks like you have a project on your hands.  There are a number of factors to consider.  Is it leaking when the slideout is in, or out?  Is there a window near the water leak? The best I can advise is to dry the area as best you can with warm weather and an electric fan placed blowing directly into the wet area.  Once it is dry with the slideout fully extended give it an extensive water spray test being sure to direct water as if it was raining rather hard.  Check not only the side seals of the slideout but the roof seal on top and also the window.  The 5th wheel I rebuilt had leaked around the window long term and the result was the wall under the window and the floor had both rotted extensively.

  • Thskibins

    hello!  I have a 1993 26ft dutchman classic and the water is actually leaking from underneath the trailer onto the ground, I can see a broken cap that’s kind of in a horseshoe I think?  I need to know what kind of cap it is called?

    • Curtis

      Thskibins, A picture is worth a thousand words.  If you can attach a photo, click on the + image at the lower left of the  post screen, maybe I’d have a chance of identifying it.  Otherwise the best I can say with what you describe is it sounds like a clean out cap on a “P” trap.  That’s pretty much a guess though.

  • http://www.facebook.com/thussman1 Trinity Hussman

    We just purchased a Kz frontier and absolutely love it , except on the first trip out when we turned the water pump on within just a few minutes the floor right in between the kitchen sink and the bathroom was wet within 25 minutes the whole floor area into the bathroom was flooded and half our water gone… We have no idea even where to start. the floor dried quickly in the 100 degree heat and stopped when the pump was shut off..Any ideas???

    • Curtis

      Trinity, I would have thought that at the first sign of water on the floor you would have turned the pump off… 25 minutes? The water system consists of a tank, pump, water lines, water heater, and so on. Any of these points could be the source of your leak, it will just take some looking to find it. Start with the first place you saw water and if necessary have someone pulse the pump on and off while you search. With a leak of that magnitude it shouldn’t be to hard to find.

  • Greg and Kathy

    How difficult is it to repair/replace a ruptured fresh water hose between the floor and chassis of a ’91 motorhome? Is it possible to fix it ourselves or are we dreaming? Can’t see the leak but it comes out exactly like Trinity’s (below) and we’re pretty sure it ruptured because it froze last winter. Is this usually a major repair job involving lifting the carpet and floor? Thanks!

    • Curtis

      Greg, I see it as a diy situation, but then I’ve never paid anyone to work on anything I’ve owned, RV or otherwise. It’s all a matter of how handy you are, overall it’s pretty straight forward.

  • Dennis

    I have a 2007 Pilgrim with a couple soft spots in the floor, 1st indication that i had a problem. after countless checking i eliminated any type of water leak inside of the camper. I went underneth and cut little squares of canvas type material off bottom of camper exposing the wood. it was saturated. i suspect a leaking seam maybe the one that runs the length of trailer i caulked it but we have not had any rain and when i pull canvas material it is dry where i cut out little sections but still wet where it still covers wood. Is This Normal that it would take this long for it to dry out? it has been a good 2 weeks since i discovered it and we have not had rain seems like a long time to stay wet,any susgestions?

    • Curtis

      Dennis, If a saturated area is closed up with no real air circulation it will stay wet indefinitely and you will end up with rot. The wet area needs to be opened up and an electric fan placed blowing on it until all is dried out.

  • Richard

    I have a 1996 Prowler front kitchen. Had a water leak in the middle of the night, so a lot of water flooded the floor.The leak was by the water heater when a pipe fitting seperated. Top area has been dried but must I replace lower portion beneath trailer? When I lower front of trailer water ran out on the ground.
    Richard

    • Curtis

      Richard, Wherever water has saturated things rot, mildew, and mold will quickly follow. Unless you open up the area to air and use a fan to circulate the air it is unlikely it will dry out before expensive damage has been done. I’m sure this isn’t what you wanted to hear, but it needs to be dried out ASAP.

      • Richard

        Thank you Curtis, but how and what do I remove to dry it out?

        • Curtis

          Richard, Sorry but I have no idea what specific RV’s us for bottom material. I’ve seen everything from sheet black plastic to a fully enclosed fiberglass bottom. Either way you need to find a way to get it exposed to air to dry it.

  • Jayco Eagle10

    I’m replacing the Butyl putty on my 1996 popup roof. Would thin bead of 100% Silicone be OK to use on the roof’s aluminum lap seams, then overlayed with Butyl putty provide a good, water-tight seal against the elements for years, or be better off using 2 layers of Butyl putty, over the 1 layer that Factory uses?

    • Curtis

      Jayco Eagle10, I question the compatibility of the two different sealing materials. I think I would go with two layers of Butyl putty. The excess will just squeeze out. That’s what I did when I installed a roof vent on my Chevy van due to the the surface not being a flat sheet.

  • Julie

    HELLO, I HAVE A QUESTION FOR CURTIS IF YOU WOULD BE SO KIND TO HELP, I HAVE A 1992 DUO-THERM AIR CONDITIONER PROBLEM, RATHER THAN THE CONDINSATION RUNNING OFF OUTSIDE, ITS DRIPPING INSIDE THROUGH THE AIR INTAKE AREA, HELP, I APPRECIATE ANY ADVISE YOU HAVE. JULIE

    • Curtis

      Julie, Here’s a link to a real good article about why A/C’s leak into the RV.
      http://bryantrv.com/roofacleaks.html Basically if the weight of the A/C has caused the roof to sag or settle, the water can’t escape the unit and run off away from the A/C. Also if someone has sealed around the outer edge so there is no gap under the A/C they are trapping the water so it can’t run off. The water needs to escape out the bottom of the A/C and run down hill away from the A/C, not pool around it.

  • R&R

    Curtis,
    I own a 2010 heartland north courntry rv. Last week I found some floor damage in the storage under the bed near the outside wall where the access door is. I don’t think the storage door is leaking. Then upon further investigation I found water built up on top of the plastic under carriage cover on the bottom of the rv. I poked a small hole in the under cover to let the water drain. There was quite a bit of water. Once it had all drained, I tested all the plumbing. Its not the plumbing. I washed the roof of the camper yesterday and found water coming out of the small hole I put in the plastic under carriage cover. Do you have any ideas how this water might be getting there? Any advice would be of great help. Thanks in advance.

    • Curtis

      R&R, Sure, water is coming in possibly through a roof seam or around a window, or even side trim if you have any. It then runs down through the walls and pools in the under belly. I wouldn’t rule out that storage compartment door either. Starting with a dry RV it will be a slow process to use a garden hose wetting small areas at a time to find exactly where it’s coming in. I know my 10 yr old motorhome leaked like a sieve when I bought it. I resealed all roof seams and silconed around all windows and cured the problem without really knowing where it was getting in.

  • Sunshyne

    Hi Curtis,
    I recently bought a 1995 fleetwood westport fifthwheel. I have experience with doing small camper remodeling on the interior. But this project is going to require an entire slide out to be rebuilt. Wondered if you had suggestion as to how to attack the exterior or interior first and should i try to reuse what i can as far as siding trim/ molding? Also, the siding looks to be riveted together whats best course of getting past those without destroying what might be reuseable?

    • Curtis

      Sunshyne, Hard to say without being able to see what you’re dealing with. My own experience on rebuilding a slideout included removing the wall paneling on the inside, repairing some frame work structure from the inside, and removing one side window that was damaged beyond use. I used a sheet of fiberglass material typically used in home bathroom remodels to cover the opening from the window. Yes it looked like a repair but it was done neatly and it didn’t seem to hinder my selling the RV. My advise would be to disturb as little as you can, and make your repairs look as neat as you can. As to rivets, you can drill them out assuming they are pop rivets. If you can, leave the siding intact. Your better off working from the inside.

  • tsavoy75

    I have a 2012 aerolite camper and water is coming out on the floor under the fridge after it rains hard, the furnace is below the fridge, when I removed the paneling I found the top of the furnace wet, I put corking on the bottom part of the fridge outside vent last week and today the corking was coming off and was damp… any idea how to pinpoint and fix this leak

    • Curtis

      tsavoy75, You have two possibilities for leaks to do with refrigerators. The roof vent may be cracked and allowing water to come in and run down the chimney area. If you hit a branch or something with it, plastic breaks pretty easy. The other possibility is the exterior access panel for the fridge. I’ve never seen one leak, but if I was to guess I’d say around the outer most trim would be a good start. Running a neat, and small, bead of clear silicone around the outside edge sealing the trim to the siding should take care of that issue.

  • cheryl kerr

    i have a 2000 holiday rambler have spent $1,000.00 on a new water heater, $300.00 on the roof and now there is water coming in from the floor in the bathroom all around the seams, how do i find out where it is coming from,

    • Curtis

      cheryl kerr, Water line, toilet, around the shower, from here I would be just throwing out guesses. If your recent expenditures were in hopes of curing this same water leak I’d have to recommend you stop throwing money at it and spend more time tracking down the problem.

  • gailgensler@aol.com

    I have a 2001 R-Vision travel trailer. It is hooked up to city water but is leaking water from the water bladder fill hole. When I take off the cap, about a gallon of water comes out but then it continues to dribble. I am new to RVing and assume there is some type of valve between the city water & water bladder but don’t know where to find it. Any ideas?
    Thanks for your help!

    • Curtis

      gailgenster@aol.com, This is a very common failure. The check valve, which is built right into the water fill fixture, has failed. You can order a replacement on Amazon.com http://tiny.cc/dsa3rw or any RV dealer will have them on hand.

      • gailgensler@aol.com

        Hmmmm…..I can understand how that could make it leak on the outside but I don’t understand why there is any water present there. I am using city hook-up so should there be any water present at the other end of the trailer where the water bladder is located that you use when not connected to city water?
        Thanks again!

        • Curtis

          gailgensler@gailgensleraolcom:disqus Oops, I misunderstood the problem. My mind went to the city water connection, which is where the check valve is located that prevents water from coming out there when you turn on the on board pump.

          Your pump has a check valve built into it that stops water from going backwards toward the water tank (bladder). If the amount of leakage is small and incidental I’d say to do nothing for now. What’s happening is when you’re connected to city water it is filling the water tank. When it gets full, excess runs out the over flow. The best way to cure the issue when it becomes an inconvenience is to replace the water pump. If you can install it yourself a replacement should run about $75 or less on Amazon.com. Don’t get in a hurry though because it may just be a piece of dirt or something hanging in the check valve that will eventually work it’s way out. Try going back and forth from on board pump to city water pressure a few times. It might clear the check valve for you.

          • gailgensler@aol.com

            That makes sense. I thought maybe there was a toggle-type switch that prevented it from going to the bladder. Looks like I’ll be changing out the water pump when it gets a little warmer out. Thanks so much for your help!

          • gailgensler@aol.com

            By the way, where is the water pump located? Thanks again!!!

          • Curtis

            gailgenster@aol.com, That can very per make and model. The easiest way to find it is turn it on and open a faucet. then follow the noise.

          • gailgensler@aol.com

            Ok – thanks again!

  • NORMAN SHAPIRO

    I’VE BEEN A LICENSED BLDR IN CAL. FOR 50+ yrs. the best water test, and this by an expert had to pay $500 a long time ago, is to start at the bottom and work up with the hose. Don’t work from the top down for you’ll miss the spot or overlay. A very good sealant i “Thyocal”( that may not be the spelling).

    • Curtis

      Norman, Yes, starting from the bottom and work up is the best plan.

  • rodney brady

    I have a 2003 prowler bunkhouse and I have to remove the 14 foot slide to repair the main beam above the slide! it has the rigid side not fiberglass how do I do this? I have fixed floors and roofs but never removed a slide out room!

    • Curtis

      Rodney, Sorry, I’ve never removed a slide either.

  • Wayne

    Hi Curtis, we have a fresh water (city) leak that started last night. We also have a sealed under carriage. It seems to be in the front part of the 5th wheel (Sabre by Palomino) We have checked all tanks – no problems. We turned the water off and when turned on again the drip started. We did poke tiny holes in the under carriage to relieve the build up. Is it very difficult to remove this under carriage in order to find the break? Should we get professionals?

    • Curtis

      Wayne, Sorry but I wouldn’t know how it is constructed without at least seeing it. If the undercarriage is enclosed, the actual water leak may be a distance from where you see the water coming out. I would take it to an RV dealer and let them assess the situation unless you feel comfortable tackling it yourself.

  • anna

    I have a 08 wolf pack by forest river it as a leak somewhere in the front right corner of camper we have resealed the front seam on the cap,resealed the running lights on both side in the front on the cap cover
    , we have tighting the air/cond bolts on both air/cond, put selfleveling on top on everything don’t know what eles to do

    • Curtis

      Anna, Many times leaks can be hard to track down. I spent 3 years chasing a randomly reoccurring leak and never did cure it completely. The best you can do is water test it thoroughly. With a garden hose start lower on the RV and very slowly work your way up. Sadly this is no guarantee you will find it because water can travel far from it’s entry point before making itself visible.

  • Martin Stephens

    I have a 2001 Trail Lite by R Vision (out of business). The front extends out to cover the propane tanks and room for tools etc. The cover is leading and the weather stripping is shot. Had local dealer check all his catalogs and we can’t find any of the molding exactly like the type it has. The hatch is hinged the entire length of compartment and molding goes all around. It is 4′ accross by 2’high, curved at the top. Surely someone makes this but we can’t locate them. thanks

    • Curtis

      Martin, Many manufactures went under when the economy fell apart in 2008. Sadly you may never find an exact replacement. I’d suggest shopping for something similar that may work because finding an exact replacement may be impossible.

  • Paula Walzak

    i have a 2006 frontier explorer with tip out. when we opened the trailer for the spring last week we noticed that the floor was cracked. we also noticed that the carpet in front of the sofa/dining area was wet. flooring was removed and the wet carpet, but noticed that we could see light from the outside coming in. upon further inspection outside we could see seals a either end of the tip out were completely rotted. do you know what this part is called or how we can replace it. had a slightly wet carpet last year but it dried up fast and didn’t think anything of it. what to do? can’t seem to find any info on this trailer of the tip out.

    • Curtis

      Paula, I’m taking a guess, but possibly the brand is no longer produced. Many Many brands went under around 2008. That said, you might be able to find something in the way of seal material at an RV dealer or Camping World. More importantly when the RV is stored it should always be covered. a plastic tarp that extends over the slideouts is an inexpensive route that makes a big difference.

      • Paula Walzak

        If I repair it with another product will it affect the tip out ability to close properly. Should I remove these all together and try to make something similar myself?

        • Curtis

          Paula, the best I can say is I have no idea. I have no way of determining what kind of seals you have, or the condition. You will have to do what you are comfortable with. I’d recommend talking to an RV dealer.

  • ARob

    I have a 2010 Shadow Cruiser we bought brand new. We just had the dealer reseal the roof and re-caulk the outside of the camper. Today we had a major rain storm so I checked on the camper and found water puddled on the floor next to the shower. Since it was just resealed and re-caulked I can’t find where the water is getting in. Any suggestions??

    • Curtis

      Arob, Only that the water may be getting in somewhere else. Can’t tell much from here.