RV Toilet Repair - How To Fix That Problem Toilet
Under normal circumstances, the toilet in your RV retains water in the bowl. The most important reason for that water is to block odor from coming up into the living space.
The proper method of use in an RV is to hold the water valve open after flushing to allow about an inch of water to sit in the bottom after the valve has closed.
When that inch of water mysteriously disappears awhile after flushing it’s an indication that the rubber seals around that large valve have gotten hard or damaged and are no longer doing the job.
Aqua Magic RV Toilets
Aqua Magic toilets produced by Thetford are the most common toilets found in all but the most expensive of RVs.
There are a few other brands, including some that are ceramic and similar to what you find in a home.
If your RV cost less than $100,000, odds are pretty good you have a Thetford Aqua Magic toilet.
One nice feature of the Thetford RV toilet is the fact that Aqua Magic parts are readily available. As a result, repairing rather than replacing the RV toilet is a common practice.
What Can Go Wrong With An RV Toilet?
The RV toilet is a straightforward device with pretty much only 2 areas that may cause you any problems:
1. The blade seals for the wide valve at the bottom of the bowl -- explained above.
2. The water valve -- water continues to run when you release the water valve control handle (or pedal, depending on your model).
Of course being that the whole toilet is plastic, if you happen to break any parts, you will find most are readily available.
Mark’s RV Supplies is one of many companies that carry almost anything you would need to get your RV toilet back in operating condition.
How To Repair An RV Toilet
To repair your RV toilet, follow these steps:
The first step is to turn off the water pressure -- either by turning off the “City Water” valve or turning off the on switch for the on-board water pump.
- Flush the toilet to bleed off any remaining water pressure and to empty all water out of the toilet bowl.
The toilet will have to be removed in order to work on it, as repairs are made from the rear or bottom side.
Remove the 2 bolts (one on each side) that secure the toilet to the floor. You’ll then be able to lift the toilet away from the wall and access the water connection at the back side of the toilet. With the water line disconnected, you can then remove the toilet to a nearby work bench or table.
You might want to lay a cloth rag across the hole to help keep odors at bay, and to prevent anything from falling into the black water tank.
Unlike house toilets, RVs don’t use a wax ring to seal the toilet to the drain pipe. Instead, you will have a rubber ring that will act as the seal.
Depending on what portion of the toilet your repairs are concerned with, refer to the parts diagram that comes with the repair kit for disassembly instructions. Be sure when you order parts for the specific brand and model number of your RV toilet.
If you’re repairing the blade seals, before you reinstall the toilet in the RV, pour a quart of water into the toilet to make sure the new seals will hold water.
If you’re replacing the water valve on the back of the toilet, once you have reinstalled the water line, pressurize the water system to make sure the valve doesn’t leak. If it passes this test, then go ahead and bolt it back down to the floor.
It’s recommended that you install a new rubber seal between the toilet and the floor flange when you reinstall the toilet.
Toilet problems can really put the damper on a good RV outing. Fortunately repairing them isn’t really as bad as it sounds. The stinky part stays in the black water tank.
Kim, I'm not familiar with that particular toilet though it sounds like a linkage problem or something jamming up. Odds are you'll have to remove the toilet and give it a look see on the bench. Unless you can get in a position to see what's happening with the mechanism.
I have a monogram classic toilet the last time we used it the pedal stuck and the water kept on running the opening were the waste goes down stopped opening what do we need to do to repair it?
Jay, Glad to help and I learned something too. Never considered the two bolts would be front and back rather then side to side. Thanks
Curtis,
The info and help is much appreciated. The manual will come in handy for replacement parts. After a couple hours thinking insanity was setting in, I pushed the foot lever down and low and behold way back up and behind in a hole was a nut. Removing it and one in the rear accessible only through touch allowed the unit to be removed. Must be lucky to have one that bolts in the front and back instead of the sides.
Thanks again for the help.
J.M.
Jay, Check out this parts breakdown: http://www.thetford.com/HOME/PARTS/PermanentToilets/AquaMagicGalaxyPartsNEW/tabid/615/Default.aspx
Item number six is the two mounting bolts that hold the toilet to the floor. I suspecting there is small removable access plugs on each side of the toilet.
In the process of replacing the carpet in a 86 C winne.Very nasty.I decided the easyest way in the bathroom is to remove toilet first. My problem is there are no bolts on the side that I can see to get at to remove. I have an Aqua model SL. Is there a cover around the bottom bowl? How to I get the thing off without using a hammer. Any help would be appreciated.
Maureen, What you're describing sounds like a linkage problem or a water valve problem. Both issues would require removing the toilet and bench testing as access is almost impossible with the toilet mounted in the RV.
Clyde, This paragraph spells out the purpose of the vacuum breaker:
What does the Vacuum Breaker do?
The Vacuum Breaker is essentially a check valve or anti-siphon device, which allows water to only flow one way. It is a plumbing standards code requirement that a Vacuum Breaker must be on all toilets. This prevents waste water from siphoning back into your fresh water. Source Thetford.com
Lee, Like so many things in life the distance between just enough and way to much is very short. Use Caution is the best advice.
Why does a Aqua Magic need a vacuum valve anyway, it only feeds the water to the bowl. Seems like an unnecessary "middle man" to me.
Hi Curtis,
Thanks for the help. I figured out how to remove the bottom cover to expose the bolts and guts of the toilet. I also determined that I have a Thetford Bravura. I did a small test flush and did see water that appears to possibly come from the closet flange seal. While it could have been the slosh affect as you mention, I wan't driving and it looks like sewage will leak as you flush right through flange seal. The seal is also cracked in a number of places (possibly due to weather changes and winter storage here in Md/DE). I also noticed the blade seal appears to "missing" on one spot of the blade so I think I have two problems at the same time. I ordered the rebuild kit which has all the seals and am going to replace those.
The only thing that concerns me is disconnecting and reconnecting the water source. I tried replacing a sink faucet and had to get outside help because I could not keep the lines from leaking. It also seemed very hard just to turn the female connector, like the whole line would try to turn with it. I used lots of teflon tape and everything. Is there a trick to this? Do you just have to make it VERY tight? It seems like it could crack being plastic.
Thanks,
Lee
Hi there, I have a '95 Ford Duck Dutchman and it's in great shape. I've owned it for 6 years. At once, however, this past month - the water no longer works to fill up the auqa magic iv hand flush toilet. The rv water pump also does not go on when you pull this flush lever. It worked and then all of a sudden it did not. Everything looks clean and tight with the water line to the toilet. However when you pull the flush handle - no water pump sound and no water.
How is the pump activated and/or know when to pump the water? If it's by pressure then it's probably no electrical or pump issue as it works for the faucets, etc. without issue. So I'm guessing the issue is with the toilet itself? I have the parts diagram but wonder what I need to replace?? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you
Lee, With a class C I'm guessing the black tank is quite close just below the toilet hence the leak being more noticeably nasty. If the seal between the toilet and the floor connection is loose sloshing may be enough for it to leak around the base of the toilet. As you will have to remove the toilet to replace that o-ring seal, you might as well bench test the toilet to check the blade seal. Look for toilet paper build up as that also will let water seep out of the bowl. Do a search on your model of toilet and you can probably find a parts breakdown on the internet. Good luck.
I forgot to mention, this is a Holiday Rambler Atlantis (class C) 2002 model. I don't know what kind of toilet it is.
Hi Curtis:
First thank you so much for answering all these questions!
I have a leak of ug, dirty water. It is not a large leak like it leaks leaks out, but notice the carpet around the toilet was wet. I also notice the toilet no longer holds the 1" of water. It sounds like what you are talking about in your first few paragraphs at the top but not clear on which seal need to be replaced. It my case it seems like more than 1 seal might be bad: the blade seal that holds water in the toilet and the seal between the toilet and tank? My toilet has always rocked a little bit since new. Maybe it was never secured properly?
Carolyn, You may have a bigger problem then just the rubber o-ring seal. Is the floor spongy, has water rotted the wood? Are the mounting bolts loose? Is the flange the toilet meets up to solidly mounted? You probably should remove the toilet and check these things out to determine exactly what is causing the problem.
Carolyn: Read the letter that is 4 down from this reply.It is written by Curtis and should answer your Question.
Gord
My trailer toilet has been loose, it rocks from in all directions. Could this be the rubber seal? The floor has stained from using toilet chemicals. Do you think I could repair it my replacing the seal? It works fine, but just started leaking water on the floor towards the back of the toilet.
Hi Curtis: Went out to the motorhome on Fri.to try and fix the toilet.I was feeling around behind the toilet and located the flush mechanism that is attached to the foot treadle.While feeling around I also noticed a small pin that was not attached to anything. I attached the pin to the foot pedal mechanism and lo and behold that did the trick.You get lucky sometimes I guess.
June And Gord
Hi Curtis: After reading some of the replies, I think it might be the vent that is clogged.We`re going out there again Fri.and I`ll check the vent as I think I might have dislodged while parking under some trees.
Thanks for the advice.
Will try it if vent thing doesn`t work.
Gord and June
Gord, Removal of the toilet is similar to a home toilet. There are two bolts located on the sides of the base. The only real difference is you will have an o-ring instead of a wax ring for the seal between the toilet and the trailer. Of course there will be a water line to disconnect once you have it away from the wall and can get at it. Make sure the pump is turned off before you remove the water line.
We have a 1977 Chevy 20 ft. motorhome and the toilet just stopped working.The toilet is a Classic and would like to know how to remove it from the floor so I can try and repair it myself.The foot pedal doesn`t flush the toilet and water won`t refill the bowl? This is our 1st year RVing and don`t want to end it on a sour note.Any help would be greatly appreciated,as we are seniors and will try to fix it ourselves.
Thanking you in advance
Gord and June
Ernest, This may seem like a stupid question but did you turn the water pump on?
I hooked a toilet up in my camper and water will not come in, it will flush but no water comes in. Any suggestions? It looks like the linkage is working. Thanks ernest
Ron, More then likely toilet paper has gotten wedged into the slot the blade slides through. Less likely is the seal or blade might be damaged.
On my Aqua magic IV the blade seal is difficult to close. I have to put my foot under the pedal and pull up to close it. This just started recently and no adjustments to the mounting bolts have been made. What's your guess as to this problem?
Erin, First, and most important, DO NOT leave the black tank valve open. The water will run off and the solids will quickly plug your tank. Only open the valve to drain the tank when it's full or nearly so.
Your vent pipe coming out the roof may be plugged or your vent may not be creating sufficient draft to draw the smell out through the vent. The Cyclone sewer vent claims it will improve the draw as it makes better use of the passing breeze.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/cyclone-sewer-vent/31992
when we flush the toilet in the rv we get a terrible sewage smell seems to be coming out of the toilet and when my father dumps the tank the smell coming from the bathroom runs ua all outside is this normal and should he leave the valve to the black water open when we are hooked up to sewage in rv park
John, The vent is a pipe that travels up the wall of your RV and protrudes out the roof. The bottom connection is to the Black Water tank. If the pipe is plugged you will have a vacuum lock that will hamper material leaving the toilet from traveling to the waste tank. The toilet itself doesn't have a vent, just the waste tank. Here is a breakdown picture of your toilet.
http://www.thetford.com/HOME/PARTS/PermanentToilets/AquaMagiciVHandFlushParts/tabid/380/Default.aspx
I have an Aqua Magic IV in our 1999 Monaco 5th wheel. We have trouble with it flushing all the way. Once in awhile you will hear a girgling sound and then the water drains into the black tank properly. I think the air vent may be blocked, but I'm not sure where its located. Any help? Thanks
Good idea, problem is we couldn't get the hose past the blockage. As a last resort, we got one of those hand-cranked toilet augers. After it released the clog and everything went down, we ran water and it plugged up again. So, we had to repeat the process 3 more times and finally, viola, it continued to drain.
Von, Not meaning to sound sarcastic but the sewer roof vent is on the roof. It will be a round plastic pipe about 2" in diameter and if the vent cover is in good shape it will have a cover shaped sort of like a mushroom. If the vent cover is missing trash could have gotten down the pipe and plugged it.
Fred, Most likely your water valve isn't sealing completely. There is no over flow protection so you've just been lucky.
We have a AM4 hand flush in our trailer and it has a leak in the back which seems to be the water valve. However, we live in Texas and it has been in the hundreds for several days and the odor is bad (yes we have added deoderizer several times). We think the roof vent is clogged because the smell is terrible inside the trailer with the AC running. We don't know where the roof vent is? We are newbies to the trailer scene. Any suggestions?
Kerry, My first thought would be some kind of obstruction between the toilet and the black tank. Another thought would be a plugged roof vent which would prevent normal flow when you flush a full bowl. If the problem has existed from day one it could be a poor plumbing layout with corners in the drain pipe. I'd start with flushing water through the toilet with a garden hose. Lots of water to make sure the drain isn't partially plugged in some way. Push the hose right down the drain into the tank while the water is running.
Bob, This is what makes diagnosing over the internet awkward. Without seeing the problem it's hard to be accurate. You could have a cracked valve body, loose water connection, or bad seals in a number of parts. If the water is leaking so bad you can't determine the source try cutting down the volume of water until you can see where it's coming from. Good luck.
I have a Thetford aqua magic that leaks clean water back into the bowl very slowly. It either doesn't fill up very fast or it has some sort of overflow protection. What would cause this leak? So far it has not wet the floor. I don't know if I have just caught it in time or it drains somehow into the tanks.
It's a lot of water coming out near the top, not just a drip or two but a lot of water, seems too much for a o ring to be leaking.
than you
Bob West
Bob, The vacuum breaker does contain o-rings so it could be the culprit. Rebuilt kits are available so it appears to be repairable. Here's link to the rebuild kit.
http://www.adventurerv.net/aquamagic-galaxystarlite-vacuum-breaker-pack-p-5118.html
Okay, we have the same problem Robert has -- when you flush the toilet, the valve opens as it should and the contents are emptied. However, one big problem, "everything" goes right there on the other side of the valve so it's not emptying DOWN into the tank. When you open the valve to check on it, the liquid + "other stuff" is RIGHT there and it occasionally backs up into the bowl. We haven't had it hooked up to a long term site where the black tank drain valve is continually opened. What to do????
I have a Aqua Magic Galaxy/Starlite models GH, GL, SH, SL. When I flush the toilet water comes out the back. I had the toilet out and on the bench with water connected to it. When I stepped on the foot pedal water came out near the top, where two hoses come into a plastic part, nothing seems wrong with the plastic part or with the hoses. could this be the vacuum breaker or some other proplem. If it is the vacuum breaker is it hard to fix
thank you
Bob West
Lisa, No the flanges are not the same. RV toilets use an o-ring flange only available at an RV dealer. House toilets use a wax ring flange avialable at home centers. You can go to any RV dealer or RV repair shop as the flange will be the same on most any brand of RV. Good luck.
I am installing a toilet in our trailer for the first time. I am a stubborn female who insists on doing it myself. My questions are: is a flange for a household toilet the same for a RV toilet? How do you know if you use a flange with threads on the outside or inside?
John, Like Bert a few comments ago by raising the toilet that 1/2" it is very likely the o-ring seal will no longer seat properly. It's all determined by how much movement is available in your piping. You may have to shim under the flange of your piping to raise it to meet the new level of the toilet.
im going to place 1/2" ply wood over my travel trailer floor where it was damaged when a pipe was leaking.when i take up the toilet will i have to add anything to the bottom of the toilet or will i be able to just bolt it back down?
thanks
john
Robert, If the valve in the toilet is opening properly my bet would be you have a build up of solid material in the tank that is preventing anything from going down. This will happen if water is allowed to drain off before solids get the opportunity to liquify. Such as will be the case if you hook up to campsite sewer connection and leave your black tank drain valve open all the time.
we have a problem of our toilet not letting the paper and everything else flush down the drain any ideas of what to do??
Bert, Just a guess, but I would think the vibration of road travel and the lack of no heat during periods of storage might lead to failure of a wax seal. Stick and brick homes are a pretty stable environment. RV's, not so much.
Thanks for the input Curtis. Why is that a wax ring is not used?
Bert, The answer is a definite "Maybe". The seal for RV toilets is a rubber o-ring unlike a home toilet where a wax seal is used. The key will be the amount of upward movement available in your waste pipe. You may have to shim under the flange to raise the seal surface to match the new height of the toilet.
Question.
I removed the toilet in my motor home to change the flooring. I removed the carpet (pi__y carpet) and replaced it with laminate flooring. As the laminate is hard and the carpet was soft and compressed when the toilet was bolted down am i going to have any issues with the floor seal leaking as the toilet is now aprox. 1/4 in. higher than before.
any help?
Linda, I'm sorry to say there are no simple instructions to fix your problem. The toilet needs to be removed to access the water valve on the back side. I think your best bet is to take it to an RV dealer (any dealer will do) and have them take a look at your toilet.
HELP! My toilet is flooding the bathroom! It's coming from the back of the toilet. When I bought the trailer, the guy said the pedal sticks and that's why it leaks, and to make sure I pull the pedal up.
Well I did all that, but it didn't stop the water.
I'm a retired widow and don't know the first thing about this. I couldn't even figure out how to pull the toilet. I'm going to be living in this trailer in a few days, and I need some help fixing this.
Can anyone give me some simple instructions to repair it?
Linda
David, That sounds like a reasonable guess. The only way to know for sure will be to remove the toilet and bench test it assuming you can't get in a position to see exactly where the water is coming from.
I have a AM4 hand flush model which leaks at the back after every flush. The leak stops after a couple of minutes but not before leaving a small puddle. Does this sound like a water valve issue?
Thanks,
David
I need a water module service pkg for a bravura high
parch w/s Model #31105 and clear pic of the module
so that I can be sure that it's the right one. would appreciate any help. thanks
Darrell, I'd start with the water valve on the toilet. Make sure the linkage to it is OK and that it is opening properly. You may have to remove the toilet to get at it as it will be on the back side of the toilet.
I used the toilet (Thetford Aqua Magic IV Hand Flush Model) and as I was was flushing the water it suddenly stopped. The water pump is working because comes out in the shower,sink etc...but I cant get the toilet to flush. Any ideas?
THe water didn't come OVER the top-it is leaking all the way around-kinda under the seat where it looks like it was put together at.It has the hand flush also and water seems to be coming from somewhere on the lower back side. Thanks for your help!!
Susie, It sounds like you water valve isn't shutting off properly. There is no overflow protection so when the bowl fills water will run over the top and onto the floor. This isn't a matter of seals not holding, but rather the valve isn't shutting off the flow of water when the pedal is released.
We just bought a 1995 Dutchman and stayed in it for a week with no problems. Then when we got ready to go-my grandson flushed the toilet and left it running-water now is running out around the Whole top of the bowl-right under the seat. Are there seals under there as well? Water is running down the sides and onto the floor-HELP!
Pamela, Strange symptoms for sure, your toilet flush pedal is a two step action. Pushing it part of the way down turns on the water flow and going all the way down opens the waste valve. Possibly there is a problem with the water valve or the linkage going to it so that it doesn't always allow water to flow. I have no idea how water turned on elsewhere would have any affect on the issue.
Sometime when I flush the jon the water will flow and sometime not. If I turn the water on in the tub then it will work sometime. If I run water elsewhere sometime it will fill up in the jon. nothing is constant.
Brian, The only way to find out is to remove the toilet from the RV and head for your work bench. It's time to get your hands dirty. Once you have it out and can look at it from the bottom side you'll be able to determine what's happening, or in your case not happening.
Yeah I have a feeling there is some paper caught. When I step on the flusher the water comes out as normal, but there is no retraction of the blade. When I let go of the flusher the blade does not move either, but the water does stop flowing. Do you think it could still be a seal, or could it possibly be a lever connection between the step flush and the blade. I have never dug into one of these, so I'm unsure of how the setup works, etc....thank you for you help
Brian, From what your saying there's a good chance the rubber seal for the blade valve has been damaged. This will require you to remove the toilet and disassemble it to replace the seal. One easier possibility would be toilet paper may have become wedged into the track where the blade opens and closes. You might be able to clean it out without tearing every thing apart. That's about the only short cut in an otherwise complete dismantling required to replace the seal.
Last night I got up in the middle of the night, and as I flushed noticed that there was a gap ~ 1/4 inch open where the blade did not seat after the last flush, so when I did flush I noticed that the blade did not retract at all. What is the best method to fix this issue. Any indepth, detailed answers would be most helpful. I have tonight and part of tomorrow to get it working before I have to be back in Grad school for the week. I appreciate any and all help you can provide.
John, on most Thetford toilets the water valve is located on the back side of the toilet high up. Yes it could be leaking and letting water rundown the backside and migrate around to the front of the toilet.
The toilet leaks clear fresh wateer on the floor in front of the toilet. I have taken it off and there is no leaks or cracks. Can the valve that the water comes into the bowl leak between the inside walls of the toilet.
How about the same info for Aqua Magic V ??
Thanks, Larry
Your welcome Roger, glad I could help.
I was all set to either go buy a new toilet or have the local RV Shop make the repairs. After finding this article, I think I can repair my Aqua Magic IV myself! Thanks for posting this article!